Ram brown and frederick a



(No Model.)

H. POLSOM.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

No. 268,656. A Patented Dec. 5, 1882.-

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HANNIBAL FOLSOM, OF STOUGHTON, ASSIGNOR TO HIMSELF AND ADONI- RAM BROWN AND FREDERICK A. FOLSOM, BOTH OF MEDFORD, MASS.

MANUFACTURE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 268,656, dated December 5, 1882.

' Application filed May 22,1882. (No model.) i

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, HANNIBAL FOLSOM, of Stoughton, in the county of Norfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in the Manufacture of. Boots and Shoes, of which the following is a Specification. Thisinvention relates to that class of boots and shoes in which the upper and theouter sole are connected by means ot'a welt which is first sewed to the inwardly-turned edge of the upper and then laid upon and stitched to the outer sole, an inner sole being employed to cover the edges of the upper.

The invention has for its object to obviate certain defects previously existingin the m anufacture of boots and shoes of this class; and to this end it consists in the improvements which I will now proceed to describe and claim. Ofthe accompanying drawings, forming a part of this specification, Figures 1,2, and 3 represent transverse sections of a boot or shoe, showing my improved construction. Fig. 4 represents a bottom view of the lasted upper, showing the mark made to indicate the position for the welt. Fig. 5 represents a similar view, showing the welt applied to the marked upper. Fig. 6 represents a modification.

The same letters of reference indicate the same partsin all the figures.

In the drawings, A represents the upper, B the welt, and (J the inner sole, of a welted or hand-sewed boot or shoe. The upper is first sewed to the welt,independently of the inner sole, at s s. The welt is made ofmuch more flexible leather than the inner sole, and it therefore affords a pliable or flexible support for the stitches s, and gives a yielding character to the connection of the upper to the bottom of the boot or shoe, obviating the liabilityof the upper breaking near the stitches which secure it to the welt, such breakage being liable to occur when the upper, the inner sole, and the Weltare connected by the same stitches. The outer edge of the weltis secured tethe outer sole by stitches s, as usual, or in any other suitable manner. The upper is turned or extended inwardly a considerable distance beyond the inner edge of the welt, as shown. The inward extension of the upper is 5 of sufficient width to enable the fastenings of boots and shoes the upper has terminated used in attaching a tap or half-sole to the boot or shoe to penetrate the upper inside of the point where it is attached to the welt.

Heretofore in the manufacture of this class at or near the inner edge of the welt, so that the upper has not extended inwardly far enough to receive the tap-fasteni ngs. It is well-known, when a hand-sewed boot rips at the inner seam which secures the welt to the upper, that the boot can only be repaired by ripping off the outer sole and welt anolputting in a new welt at an expense for labor equal to the first cost of making.

It will be seen, that the inward'extension of 6 the upper enables the damage to a hand-sewed boot caused by the breakage of the inner seam to be repaired by tapping or half-soling, the same as in a machine sewed or pegged boot or shoe. 7c The inner sole may be placed in position without attachment to the upper; or, as I prefer, it' may be secured to the upper by stitches s placed a considerable distance inside of the stitches s, so as to leave a portion ofunconfined upper stot-k between the stitches 8 which are rigidly held by the inner sole and the flexibly-held stitches 8, thus preventing the stitching of the upper to theinner solo from neutralizing the advantage gained by stitching the welt only to the upper.

ln making the improved boot or shoe above described, I first mark the in weirdly-projecting portion of the upper to indicate the proper position for the welt thereon, and then attach the welt to the upper as indicated by the mark. I prefer to first last the upper and mark it while it is.on the last, as shown in Fig. 4, m representing the mark, which in this case is made to indicate the position of the inner edge of the welt. The inwardly-turned edges of the upper may be secured temporarily to the inner sole while on the last, or may be connected by transverselacin gs t, as shown'in Fig. 4. After the upper has been lasted and marked it is re- 5 moved from the last and the welt is secured to it, as shown in Fig. 5,in the position indicated by the mark m. The upper is then relasted and the outer sole is attached while the upper is on the last.

If desired, the upper may be out out in the proper form for a boot or shoe of a given size and marked for the welt while in a flat condition, as shown in Fig. 6, the welt being then sewed to the flat upper. The upper is then lasted and theouter sole is attached to the welt.

I do not limit myself to the use of any particular method or device for marking the upper. Anysuitahle pointed instrument may be used to make a linear indentation or mark, or, in case the upper is lasted before marking, the position for the welt may be indicated by the crease or angle formed on the upper by turning the edges thereof over upon the bottom of the last, or by the marks of the hammer or other tool employed in lasting.

I claim- 1. A welted boot or shoe having the welt secured to the upper, independently of the inner sole, upon one line, the upper extended inwardly from said line, and the inner sole fastened to the upper upon another line inside of the fastenings that connect the welt and upper and inside of the inner edge of the welt, whereby a portion of the unconfined upperleather is left between the connection of the inner sole to the upper and the connection of the upper to the welt, as set forth.

2. In the process of making boots and shoes, the hereimdescribed improvement, consisting in, first, marking or creasing the upper while on the last to indicate the proper position for the welt; secondly, removing the upper from the last; thirdly, securing the welt to the marked or creased upper, and, finally, again lasting the upper, with the welt attached, and securing the outer sole to the welt, as set forth.

. In testimony whereof Ihave signed my name to this specification,in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, this 19th day of May. 1882.

HANNIBAL FOLSOM. Witnesses:

O. F. BROWN, A. L. WHITE. 

